Argentina and Ruta 40

Argentina – Ruta 40

25th March

We left late as I had to remove my panniers and fix the tank as it seemed to have come loose. It was then that I discovered that the pannier that had been under the bike when it fell was actually dinged on the inside and the lid didn’t shut properly as the whole pannier was bent! I will have to do the tank in Ushuaia as it needs new rubber padding (the corrugations have taken their toll). I tried to adjust the chain but found it was too tight on the next adjustment so put it back to it’s original setting. By the time it was all back together and we were packed it was 11.30am.

We headed to Bajo Caracoles stopping only for supplies at Perito Merino. I was shocked, the same road 8 years ago had been gravel/mud now it was asphalt. Buying supplies also had it’s problems as everything seemed closed bar a Panaderia, where I went mental buying pastries, bread and cheese twists etc. remembering all the goodies Kath and I used to buy when we travelled in Argentina. after a close inspection of the town we managed to find a small shop for other essentials for emergency camping! We discovered the problem was that it was Good Friday, Easter had arrived without us even knowing!!

On the way to Bajo Caracoles we took a 28km detour to the Cuevos de los Manos (Cave of Hands). Last time Kath and I were here we wished to do this same trip but found the road was muddy and slippery and had to abandon the idea part way in, this time it was a different scenario, the road had been upgraded! Well we both had cheek clenching moments as the road was horrific. Horrific in the sense that it was covered in a thick layer of large pebbles which made the bikes buck, wobble, swerve and head off all over the show. It was gruelling riding!

It was worth it, even Paul yelling expletives down the intercom every time he looked like getting out of control.  The caves were situated in a beautiful canyon and were more in overhangs then caves. We did a tour and found it very interesting. The earliest paintings were 1500 years old and the oldest 9000.  At the end of the tour we walked very slowly back to our bikes both dreading what may lie before us. I spied a young lady sitting in what appeared to be accommodation and went to speak to her hoping we could stay here for the night, no go, guide accommodation only!

Reluctantly we donned our jackets and helmets and  headed for Bajo Caracoles, on another road that we were assured would be a far better prospect even though it was 47 kms opposed to the 27 we had come in on. It was still hard yakka as we had to stand to compensate for the bikes getting a wobble up. It was getting dark and finally after 30kms we found our first free campsite. It was an abandoned road workers site and was awesome, mountains in the distance, stars were out, moon came up, Patagonian wind went still and it was as quiet as could be. As we sat cooking in the dark a herd of horses ran past no more than 30metres away. It made a hard day totally worthwhile.