A quick ride to the border at Tucan where we exit Ecuador in five minutes, complete Colombian immigration in five minutes then wait for the customs guy to go off for lunch before we could get him to do his job isuing our bike permits, typical South America. Two hours later we head to Paso. Rueben tried to get five months on his bike permit as he won’t be back for that long, no go, he will have to think of another plan. Rueben rides like a crazy man in and out of traffic and soon loses us.
As we are riding Paul comes up behind a truck and sits there not moving to overtake, it is two lanes but the lane he is in has been resurfaced and has a drop off. I am quite a way behind Paul and drop off the resurfaced lane and begin to overtake Paul and the truck, I see Paul begin to pull out and he is heading for me, I yell down the intercom some unpleasant words and he pulls back then looks over his shoulder and this time completes the manouvre forcing me to brake heavily or get cleaned up.
Not long after this incident I hit a dog after it chased Paul and ran in front of my bike. I nearly went down, the impact wrenched the handlebars to the right and I could feel I was losing control with the bike also leaning at a precarious angle, I slammed my left foot down and somehow this managed to bounce the bike back up and I continued on down the road. The dog was yelping madly as it wobbled toward the side of the road and I could see some people moving toward it out of the corner of my eye. Paul was oblivious to what had occurred and was motoring off down the road. It all happened so fast and by the time I thought about it it was too late to go back. My knee hurt badly, as I had twisted it when I slammed my foot down. Two near misses in one day, I was wondering what number three was going to be.
We caught up with Rueben again then continued on to stay at the Hotel Chambu Plaza in Pasto (provided by good old IOverlander at 30,000 pesos each). Rueben disappeared for a few hours to get an oil change and replace his sprockets and chain (which were from a wrecked bike but had only done 3000 km).
2nd June
Slow start to the day, Paul and I had breakfast at the hotel Chambu Plaza, Rueben stayed in bed. Ready to go and Rueben had to get new ear phones as he lost his the day before at the border. Ready to go and Rueben then had to buy chain lube. Ready to go and on the way we lost Rueben as he took the wrong route, we waited and he finally came back and off we went. We are taking the alternate route to Bogota through the mountains and Volcano area as there have been blockades and riots due to negotiations with the guerrilla group FARC and something to do with agriculture.
The road soon turned to rippio as it entered the mountains and continued like this for the entire day. It rained heavily for basically the whole day. It did stop for a short while whilst we had lunch at a small restaurant high in the mountains that was feeding a group of police/ soldiers that were at an outpost close by. The gear dried as we rode for the next hour and then it began to pour again. We stopped riding just on dark as we luckily found a hotel in a small town. The mountain road was full of tight hairpins ascending and descending the very high mountains. Waterfalls were cascading through the jungle along the entire route. We were shrouded in mist and rain for the majority of the day. It was slow going and we only managed around 200 km for the days riding. Quite a few water crossings with one major one. The guy running the hotel was very strange but the people running the restaurant next door were a lot of fun!
3rd June
Up at 6.30, breakfast next door, ordering Bout my Spanish, asked for fried eggs got scrambled, asked for black coffee got with condensed milk!! Had to put on soaking bike gear. The road was asphalt all the way. First stop was an army checkpoint where we had a photo session and Paul and Rueben had a push up competition with the duty sargeant. Lost Rueben as he took off then came across a tree down across the road the bad part being that it had hit a moped rider injuring him seriously, blood pooling on the ground. Wanted to help but due to the language barrier told Paul to leave it to the locals which were there in large numbers as the road was completely blocked and I ascertained that someone had called the ambulance. No one was really attending to him which was strange, he just sat there alone bleeding, I don't think anyone knew what to do. We ended up riding around the blockage following locals.
Thev bike gear finally dried so to avoid a massive storm we had lunch at a roadside restaurant! Happily we continued without getting wet. Caught up with Rueben at a restaurant late in the afternoon, had a big chat and laugh with the restaurant owner and a real comedian of a guy. The Colombians are so happy to meet tourists and have them in their country. Lost Rueben again on dark so we pulled into Hotel Mario in Espinal for the night. The bikes were parked inside the hotel in their courtyard next to the empty spa. Riding in the dark is just too difficult. It was incredibly hot and humid so we had the fan going flat out. Went to the Texas Bar and Grill for dinner, had a massive tasty, great burger, two beers and all for eight dollars US.
4th June
The distance to Bogota is only about one hundred and forty kilometres so we didn’t rush. Close to the hotel was a Suzuki dealer, we went down to find out if we could get an oil change done. They didn’t seem to have the right oil but a quick scout around the auto/moto shops along the same street produced some Castrol 4T 20W50 API SG Mineral based motorcycle oil, a third of the price it is in Australia, sensational! Back at the Suzuki dealership we had the oil changed and new filters installed for eight thousand Pesos – two dollars eighty US. Paul got his rear brake pads changed over for five thousand Pesos – one dollar eighty. Back to the hotel, packed then pointed the bikes for Bogota.
Except for a thunderstorm which we waited out whilst having lunch then rode to Bogota was uneventful. The road deteriorated the closer we got with the surface pockmarked with massive potholes and then we hit the jam packed roads of the suburbs, eleven kilometres out! We sat in traffic that wove in and out itself battling for position. The buses dominating the fray by holding up the right hand lane by stopping every twenty metres for passengers. The abundant motorcycles buzzed like flies around garbage speeding through and around all vehicles. Finally we made it to kilometre six and through a bottleneck being directed by traffic police to speed our was to Hostal Casa 32. A great little hostal run by a very polite helpful young man with a big heart, Juan. Whilst there he and his friends hosted a large group of young orphans, teaching them about recycling growing plants and how to have a great time.
5th June
Slept for quite a few hours today, I am extremely exhausted.Got the bikes washed at the local lavado, they look like new. That was it for the day being a Sunday.
6th June
Discovered today was a public holiday, not great for our attempt to get the bikes sent to Panama. We rode out to El Dorado airport to make sure where the terminal de Carga was and the many different providers for flying to Panama. On return home thought about flying straight to USA.
7th June
Went back out to the Terminal de Carga checked out several carriers and finally went with Air Cargo Pak for $ 900 US. Girag the most advertised carrier by Overlanders don’t do it any more. Going to Panama as Los Angeles not possible.
Went back to hostel booked flight for a 3.00 o'clock. Went to the bank Cajero (ATM) managed 1,800,000 pesos, still need 900,000 and will get it tomorrow when the bank opens.
8th June
Drain Fuel from bikes, Paul could get money but my card would not do it. Will pay rest in American dollars. Ride out to Air Cargo Pak, change into civvies put bikes in cargo area then find out the police may take a long long time to get to the warehouse to check for drugs. We will have to book a later flight, ends up costing seventy five dollars more each. Pauly not happy!!! We go off and have lunch at a little cafeteria. Back we go to the office and wait for awhile. Sebastian, the English speaking rep from Air Cargo Pak tells us they will discount the cost by 50 dollars each to assist with the increase of the air fare, Pauly impressed!! Cost $850 US, 2,500,000 Colombian Pesos!!!
Finally the Police arrive to do their check, two pm! They start with Pauls bike, totally empty and check everything, perfunctionary check for Nic’s. Paul spends time repacking Nic chatting to the workers. Rush upstairs to pay, another circus as can’t find anyone. Finally pay and run like crazy to the airport.
Catch flight to Panama and taxi to express inn, very hot in reception, people grumpy $5 for taxi there. Straight to bed.
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